Once finished with the female plug, you now need to repeat all of the above steps for the male generator cord twist lock plug. Follow the same steps above for the male end, then test the cord before using it. If you have sleeves, slide them up while minding the screws that will be needed to keep them in place. Afterward, re-screw the clamps until they’re tight. Make sure the cable’s correctly in position, and there are no gaps where dust may enter. You may need to remove the clamps first if your plug has them. Slide the base over to the end, then attach it to the plug. Screw each wire in place the moment you know they’re snugly inside each hole. Figure out which method works well for you. Some can vouch for inserting all wires at once, while others prefer to do it one by one. You may struggle a bit in inserting them all, but most wires are flexible enough to be manipulated into holes, so keep trying! Red (X) and black (Y) wires are your hot wires, while white (W) and green (G) are neutral and ground wires, respectively. Most portable generator cables and connectors come with plugs containing color codes. Now that the wires are ready to be socketed into the plug’s holes, take note of the label and color code on each one. Slot the wires into the right holes on the plug, then screw them in place. You have to use a crimping tool if you decide to go down that route. Not only will ferrules make it easier for you to screw each wire in place later, but they also help in reducing fraying and minimizing electrocution risk. I recommend doing the latter.Įven better if you twist each end nice and tight first, then use the ferrules. Insert the wire using the correct guide for 6-gauge wires.įrom here, you can either twist the exposed wires to make them as compact and close-knit as possible or use ferrules to house them. Strip each wire using automatic wire strippers, then put a ferrule on each end.Īutomatic wire strippers will get this done for you in seconds and in a single cutting action, so I recommend you use them for this purpose. This is why I highly suggest you refer to the manual before cutting off the insulation. Some may call for only ½ inch to be stripped, after all. However, it’s always best to follow the wire manufacturer’s instructions in this regard. The general recommendation for wire stripping is 1 inch. Now that the wires are free, you may need to cut off a short section of their coverings. Cut off the unneeded threads, then refer to the manual to know how much insulation you need to cut off from each wire. Stop once you can pull the cut part of the insulation off. Clamp the cable cutter on the spot, then rotate it a few times until you feel the insulation slowly coming off. Measure and mark the spot where you will be making the cut on the cable with a marker. To make sure you don’t end up cutting the precious internal wires, I recommend using a cable cutter. You have to access the four wires inside, so strip 1 ½ inch of the black insulation. Remove 1 ½ inch of the cable’s outer insulation at its end. If you’re using a plug with no clamp and just a sleeve that you can pull off, just make sure to buy a cable that will fit the male and female plugs’ respective bases. Doing so will loosen the cover, so the generator power cable can slide in. You have to unscrew two screws attaching the plug to the cover. Separate the female plug from its base or cover shell, then slide the 6-gauge cable into its opening.Ī standard female 50 amp plug for the generator comes connected to a base or black shell cover. After all, they’re mostly just concerned with correctly connecting the plugs. Take note that these steps work for most generator cable types or smaller and larger cords. Step-by-Step Guide to Make a 50A Generator Cord
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